During the summer of 2019, we celebrated our 10-year anniversary in August with an incredible road trip full of jaw-dropping stops through the Southwestern USA – CA, NV, UT & AZ. It is the trip that inspired so much of this blog. A lot of time in the car, but the most special memories for our little family. You can follow our entire Summer 2019 Road trip here, but for now, here is our take on two incredible nights filled with adventures in Zion National Park! If you have never been to Zion National Park, I cannot recommend it enough! It is a gem that everyone should experience.
JUMP TO…
ZION VISITOR CENTER
ZION LODGE ACCOMMODATIONS
LOWER EMERALD POOLS
RED ROCK GRILL at ZION LODGE
RIVERSIDE WALK TO THE NARROWS
BIG BEND
WEEPING ROCK
THE GROTTO
ZION CANYON BREW PUB
ZION NATURE CENTER
ZION-MT. CARMEL TUNNEL
CANYON OVERLOOK TRAIL
ZION LODGE MAIN LAWN
CHECKERBOARD MESA
OUR PLAN – DAY ONE
LAS VEGAS TO ZION – 88°
We woke up in Vegas and headed out a little later than we had originally wanted. Isn’t that kind of how Vegas works?!? But, after an incredible night renewing our vows, we gave ourselves a little grace and took our time. You can read more about the Vegas leg in a future post, but I wanted to head straight into Zion for those looking to explore in this COVID world we are all navigating.
It took a little over the 3 hours of driving I had mapped out to get from Vegas to Zion due to construction traffic, plus the hour we lost for the time change from Nevada to Utah. We ended up getting to Zion at about 3:30. Although there was a bit of a line at the entry gate, we used our National Park Annual Pass to enter quickly. For $80/year, this pass pays for itself if you are planning to visit at least three parks. Zion is $35/car without it. We ordered it ahead of the trip, but you can always purchase it at an entry gate. However, in today’s COVID world, purchasing ahead will save time and contact. Give yourself enough time for processing and mail if you order ahead.
ZION VISITOR CENTER
Our first stop entering a National Park is always the VISITOR CENTER. It is a great place to ask questions, clarify ideas/plans and get up-to-date advice on anything happening/changing in the parks. I also wanted to check in to make sure the famous Mt. Carmel tunnel was open. Closures are possible and it was critical to our exit towards Bryce Canyon in two days. In addition. we always pick up park brochures, our son’s Junior Ranger booklet and stamp our National Park passports. And finally, what my husband jokes is my favorite part, we refill our large water bottles for the night! National Parks have freshwater filling stations throughout the parks, so you can always count on a great refills station at the Visitor Center.
I feel like my blog will become a broken record when it comes to in-park lodging, but here we go again. I actually booked ZION LODGE for one night (all that was available) two months prior. In order to secure our second night, I kept up my strategy of refreshing availability daily. I was able to pull the trip together the way I wanted 8 days before we arrived! Originally, I had a lodge room for one night that I had booked 2 months ahead.
About a month ahead, I was able to score an opening for the second night in a cabin. I wasn’t crazy about changing rooms but REALLY wanted a cabin and REALLY wanted two nights. When I start planning I sometimes get pretty set on my dreamy plans! I ended up checking things 8 days before our trip and was able to switch our lodge room for a 2nd night in the same cabin! It was so exciting. So again, keep checking availability, and don’t give up!
ZION LODGE ACCOMMODATIONS
We arrived right before the 4pm check-in and our Western Cabin was ready. You’ll receive a red permit when you show your reservation at the gate that allows you to drive into the park past the visitor parking and to the lodge. If you are not staying at the lodge, you cannot drive into the park. The lodge is its own shuttle stop, which gives you an advantage to starting the day ahead of the crowds. The shuttle system connects all the major sites in Zion Canyon. Our Western Cabin was perfect, and exactly what we were hoping for in such a beautiful setting. It is so special to have an outdoor space to enjoy your view. Our cabin had two double beds, a table for two, a small bathroom, a refrigerator, and a gas-log fireplace. It was perfect for our little family of three, but could easily sleep 4!
LOWER EMERALD POOLS
Once we were settled, we headed out for our first Zion adventure, the LOWER EMERALD POOLS trail. This trailhead is directly across from the lodge (shuttle stop 5) and offers a ton of shade in the afternoon. To find the trail, you head out of the lodge towards the stables and cross a small bridge over the Virgin River. The views from this bridge are incredible. After the bridge, head to the right 1.2 miles towards the pools. We immediately started to notice bugs and were grateful we had mosquito repellent bracelets in our backpacks.
After about an hour, we reached the lower Emerald Pools. Although they were not overflowing, the intro to water dripping down the canyon walls was an incredible sight! Most of the trail is paved, but it does get muddy towards the pools. If you are up for more adventure, you can opt to continue up the trail for another mile to the Upper Emerald Pools. If you are feeling even more adventurous, from there you can take the 3.1 mile Kayenta Trail to the Grotto picnic area and loop back to the lodge. The trail to the lower pools and back to the lodge was a great afternoon intro to Zion, as walking along the river surrounded by the 2,000 feet canyon walls leaves you in awe of where you are and excited for your upcoming adventures!
ZION LODGE RANGER PROGRAMS
After our hike, we headed back to the lodge to handle our son’s CF breathing treatments and regroup for the night. We decided to check out the ranger program in the lobby that night. They are always so engaging and informative for kids! We were so excited to walk out of our cabin to see a dozen deer grazing on the lawn in front of the lobby. It was such a special view. We killed a few minutes by playing chess in the lobby before joining the program. We had time to enjoy a glass of wine as we all learned about “Zion Animals A to Z.” Attending the program also completed a piece of his Junior Ranger booklet!
RED ROCK GRILL at ZION LODGE
When I booked our room, I had made late dinner reservations at the RED ROCK GRILL anticipating a late lunch and post-Vegas arrival. So although late, we headed up at 9 pm for a relaxing lodge-style dinner. Red Rock Grill did not disappoint. There is something so special about comfort food, a glass of red wine, and incredible views surrounding you as you wind down from a busy day of exploring. Unfortunately, the outdoor patio we had heard so much about was closed for renovation, but we will be back and it is on my “next time” list. The good news is the patio update has probably made it even better than it was! Be sure to make reservations in advance, and ask for a patio table if you want to be outside.
Our son loved his butter noodles and we LOVED our beef tenderloin medallions and red wine. It was a great way to end the day and plan our adventures for the next day. We also used dinnertime to help our son flip through his Junior Ranger book. He worked to complete pages he already knew and decide what he wanted to finish for tomorrow. After dinner, we were happy we had a small flashlight for our short walk back to our cabin. It allowed us to catch some of Zion’s nocturnal animal life on the main lawn. It was especially exciting to catch a glimpse of the elusive ringtail we had just learned about hanging with the deer as we headed back to the cabin.
OUR PLAN – DAY TWO
EXPLORING ZION NATIONAL PARK – 87°
A good friend told me to plan our summer hikes in Zion around the sun, meaning start your day on the west side of the valley and try the east side of the park in the afternoon. We set our day up that way and used my usual “waking up in a National Park strategy” to pick a crowded spot to start our day. No question we went straight to THE RIVERSIDE WALK TO THE NARROWS.
RIVERSIDE WALK TO THE NARROWS
I feel like nobody has heard of Zion without hearing of the Narrows. Although our son was only 6, we knew we had to take in a piece of this incredible natural treasure. We had purchased water hiking shoes just for this part of the trip, no matter how little we actually could do with him. We knew we didn’t want to miss any of it because our son didn’t have what he needed to be comfortable. When we arrived in the park, we had purchased a Zion hiking stick at the VISITOR CENTER. Our son had been asking for one for the trip, so it was more of a souvenir, but we were so glad we had it for him to help stabilize himself in the Narrows.
SHUTTLE TO TEMPLE OF SINAWAVA
We took the shuttle up the canyon to stop #9, the TEMPLE OF SINAWAVA. It was very crowded and we quickly realized the stop for ANGEL’S LANDING and THE NARROWS are the top stops first thing in the morning. When we exited the shuttle, the way to RIVERSIDE WALK is pretty clear as it is where everyone was walking! There is a bathroom and fresh water at the shuttle stop if you need to use it before you begin your adventure. We headed out on the trail and began the 2.2-mile round-trip, mostly paved, walk along the Virgin River. As you walk along the bottom of the towering canyon, the gorge begins to “narrow.” Before you realize it, you are standing between less than 30 feet of 2,000-foot cliffs.
RIVERSIDE WALK ANIMAL & PLANT LIFE
The Riverside Walk gives you and your Junior Ranger some up-close views of Zion wildlife highlights. One sure to see is the squirrels wandering all over the walkway and surrounding areas of the trail. Also, as the canyon begins to narrow, and the water starts to seep down the side of the cliff, you can look for the coveted Zion Snail. It takes some patience to see, as it was once the smallest snail in the world. Our son was thrilled to find some along the trail.
In addition to the snails, he was able to find several items on his Junior Ranger bingo, including the flowering Dutura. I love the way the Junior Ranger books keep your child engaged in learning about where they are! We always recommend giving your child an old digital camera to enjoy taking pictures of what they see. It is so fun to look at the trip through their lens once you are home.
SAFETY IN THE NARROWS
Heading into the Narrows is a magical moment where you can almost feed off of the excitement of the people around you. Some are there to take in the view, some to dabble in the hike, and others to head all the way down and back. I have to mention water safety here because the danger of flash floods in Zion is real. Water conditions can change VERY quickly. PLEASE check in with rangers about weather and flash flood potential before heading into the Narrows. It is not recommended to take children hiking into the Narrows. Although we headed in a bit, we did it on a day with low flood potential and only a small distance in.
As the water began to get deeper we realized we did not have everything we needed to continue on safely. Although our son was having an incredible time, we knew it was time to turn back. I think it is important to say that as much as I love adventure and “going with the moment,” I have learned that National Parks issue countless warnings about their water issues for a reason – they are so unpredictable. Please do not think you are wiser than nature. Hike the Narrows safely and responsibly.
Heading down the Riverside Walk back towards the shuttle stop proved just as rewarding, with incredible views and wildlife galore. We enjoyed a leisurely walk back down the canyon towards the shuttle. There were several spots along the river where you could easily stop with a picnic or snack for rest & adventure. This is an area to give yourself plenty of time to enjoy and let the exploration dictate your timeline.
BIG BEND
Once we returned to the shuttle station, we had the privilege of heading DOWN the canyon in the shuttle (something that most people are doing the opposite of)! After reading other’s experiences, we decided to use our advantage of being at the top of the canyon to cruise down the shuttle stops in order. We hopped on and quickly got off at shuttle stop #8 BIG BEND.
Although there was not some major hike to take on at this stop, we loved looking around at the sights. We briefly explored the trail and looked for California Condors flying across the sky (the is a top spot for seeing them in Zion). You can also gaze up to see the final climb of ANGEL’S LANDING which is pretty incredible. It also was a nice moment to have a slice of Zion to ourselves, as BIG BEND is not a populated stop and has its own exploring potential and views of the river slicing through the canyon.
WEEPING ROCK
From BIG BEND, we hopped back on the shuttle and headed down to shuttle stop #7, WEEPING ROCK. This hike was incredibly short and came through with big views! At only .4 miles, it is slightly steep heading up towards a massive dripping sandstone peppered in hanging gardens. Unfortunately, not too long after our visit, there was a rockslide that closed this part of the park. Although the overhanging cliffs can feel overwhelming, it really is an incredible experience to stand beneath them and look out at the expansive views.
This trail is short enough to work for any age and is even paved for the majority of the path. There are several trailside exhibits to enhance your experience as you head up. As you reach the “Weeping Wall,” you are surrounded by “weeping” cliffs and the vegetation that surrounds them. Depending on the time of your visit, the cliff may be “weeping” or “flowing.” It is an incredible sight to stand behind a waterfall amongst the mosses and other water-absorbing vegetation.
THE GROTTO
From WEEPING ROCK, we took the shuttle down one more stop to shuttle stop #6, THE GROTTO. The Grotto shuttle stop is a shaded picnic area with water and restrooms. From here, you can opt for a longer adventure by crossing Zion Canyon Scenic Trial to the Kayenta Trail that will lead you to the Upper Emerald Pools. We chose a far shorter adventure and took the short GROTTO TRAIL along the scenic drive back to the Zion Lodge. The trail to the lodge is less than a mile and very flat, which made it an easy walk back!
ZION CANYON BREW PUB
Although we had grazed on some heavy snacks throughout our morning adventures, it was now 1:30 pm and we needed to eat! We knew we wanted to check out the ZION CANYON BREW PUB at Utahs’s first microbrewery, ZION BREWERY. We drove out of the park to check it out.
PARKING
The Brew Pub is located in Zion Canyon Village just south of the entrance to the park. This area gets very busy, as it is where the Springdale shuttle line ends and pedestrian access to the park begins. We realized quickly parking can be a struggle as we were visiting in peak season and arriving about 2 pm. We ended up parking in one of the many “1 hour only” spots, setting a timer, and moving the car halfway through the meal. It was a bit of an inconvenience, but we parked quickly and avoided the frustration of circling over and over looking for a different spot.
BREW PUB FOOD
The Zion Canyon Brew Pub was an awesome spot for our lunch! They are open for dinner too, and the menu has plenty of choices for everyone. Everything is made from scratch 7-days a week. We started with the grilled avocado Caprese appetizer which was awesome. The more you follow along, you will learn anything Caprese has my heart. Next up we ordered the Zion Brew burgers that came with an insanely delish Stout jalapeño bacon jam. They hit the spot and we all loved how they came with a giant onion ring on top! Our son loved his chicken fingers and brownie dessert.
BREW PUB BEER
The beer was great too. They have a variety of craft beers which is unique for Utah. All breweries and brewpubs in Utah are required to serve draft beers under 5% ABV, which is different than the typical 7% IPA. We enjoy IPAs, so we were skeptical, but we both really like the Juicy IPA. I definitely recommend the Brew Pub for a mid-day break from your adventures to refuel.
ZION NATURE CENTER
After our lunch, we drove back into the park and checked out the ZION NATURE CENTER so our son could take his Junior Ranger oath. We were so glad we did. Our thinking was the nature center would be FAR LESS crowded than the visitor center to pop in to get his Junior Ranger badge. We were correct, it was a very easy stop & parking situation, but we were also pleasantly surprised at all the Nature Center offered. If you are traveling in Zion with kids, make a point to stop in for a bit. This is an especially great place to show a completed Junior Ranger booklet to a ranger for a badge.
THE ZION NATURE CENTER has wonderful displays about the park for kids, lots of hands-on exhibits, and even a few small crafts (our son made a nature journal). Kids can even dress up as park rangers! The whole center is done so nicely and the ranger was so engaging with our son. He loved this stop and we did too! Make sure to check your park brochure for the Nature Center hours as they are more limited. There is no shuttle stop for the Nature Center, but it can be accessed from the Pa’rus Trail that leaves from the Visitor Center.
ZION-MT. CARMEL TUNNEL
From the ZION NATURE CENTER, we headed to the East side of the park, driving the beautiful Zion-Mount Carmel Highway. There are no shuttles to this part of Zion, but the drive is beautiful and worth your time! The road has several switchbacks that offer spectacular views as you gain elevation coming out of the canyon. Then, you will approach the famous 1.1-mile ZION-MT. CARMEL TUNNEL. The tunnel was completed in 1930 to create direct access to Bryce Canyon and The Grand Canyon from Zion. Once completed, it was the longest tunnel in the US at the time.
Due to the number of accidents that have occurred in and around the tunnel, if you are driving an RV or other oversized vehicle, you will need a permit to pass through the tunnel during specific hours. Rangers control traffic flow at the tunnel, so you may sit in a delay as you wait to enter. As you pass through the tunnel, huge windows carved out of the rock give you spectacular views of the canyon. These windows not only help with light and ventilation in the tunnel but were actually used to dump rock & soil into the valley below during construction.
CANYON OVERLOOK TRAIL
When you exit the tunnel heading East, chances are you will see several (full) small parking lots and cars parked along the street. These are all people hiking the CANYON OVERLOOK TRAIL. I first read about this trail from 2TravelDads and I am so glad I did. Without their review of the trail, I would have thought it was too much with our six-year-old son and moved on to the next idea. Instead, I knew this trail was something I wanted to experience. We were all so happy that we did.
PARKING
We ended up driving past the parking lots as we tried to navigate where we were and where the trailhead started. We had to u-turn on the highway and ended up parking alongside the road. The walk to the trailhead was not too long. There was space to do so on the road without panicking.
TRAIL SAFETY
The Canyon Overlook Trail is only a mile, but it has many long drop-offs that will give your heart a jump with kids. However, almost all of the drops have guard rails or some type of fencing. There was a lot of handholding on this trail! We ALWAYS had our son walking on the inside of one of us, versus along the drop side of the trail. You know your child, so if you are interested in this trail, think about how they interact with you daily. If they listen and have no problem holding hands, not running away, etc. then it can be a great experience for you! If your child is afraid of heights, loves to run ahead, or struggles with listening/following directions, this may not be the best pick for your family.
ALONG THE TRAIL
We began the trail at about 4:45pm. We had to take a moment on the ridge to take in the incredible view of the Mt. Carmel Tunnel. As the trail began to narrow, the hand-holding began as we walked along the side of the cliff. The views were very cool and the experience of walking cliffside was super exciting for our son!
As we came around the corner of the boardwalk, we found ourselves inside of a cliffside cave. It was a very cool spot to sit down, drink some water and have a snack in the shade all while taking in the incredible red rock views. After our break, we continued up the trail and shared it with many busy chipmunks! The trail has a total elevation gain of 163 feet and took us about 45 minutes to reach the Canyon Overlook.
Once we reached the overlook, we could not believe how stunning the panoramic views of Zion Canyon are! Looking down, we saw the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway switchbacks that we had just been driving up as we climbed out of the canyon towards the tunnel. As you can see in the pictures, there is a large guard rail at the lookout. There is a lot of space to roam around and check different views. PLEASE NOTICE the guard rail does not extend up the rocks. If you have children with you, make sure to keep them in the main area right with you or explore with them hand and hand! This is not a place to let your child roam and explore. Our son spent some time on the lookout for a California Condor. We have yet to see one in the wild, but he is determined.
After enjoying the view for a bit, we started to head back down. Hiking back only took us 30 minutes. We did not stop as much, but we did continue with the hand holding!! We also took a water break in that cliffside cave. You cannot beat the shade and temperature drop passing through! Once we were back at our car, we headed west back towards the canyon and lodge through the Mt. Carmel Tunnel.
HEADING BACK INTO THE CANYON
Coming down the switchbacks on the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway, we spotted exactly where we had been standing at the Canyon Overlook! There is a large arch in the mountain, and the Canyon Overlook is right on top of it. There is a pullout along the highway where you can stop to take a better view. It was pretty amazing to see where we had been from the road we were just looking down on! This hike was definitely a highlight of our trip.
We got back to the ZION LODGE a little before 7 pm and knew we wanted some time to enjoy the lodge grounds and surrounding scenery. I had made another late dinner reservation at Red Rock Grill (8:30 pm) knowing we wanted to maximize our daylight hours out and about. We had snacked heavily throughout the day and had a big, late lunch so we were grateful for a late meal. Our son loves football and wanted some time to throw the ball around before dinner, so we headed out to the lawn.
ZION LODGE MAIN LAWN
The ZION LODGE MAIN LAWN is a beautiful setting and I highly recommend carving out some time to enjoy the calm of it all. A giant, 100-foot tall cottonwood tree provides shade and serves as a gathering point for people throughout the day. We took a glass of wine and had a mini picnic complete with football and our son drawing “Zion.” We were sharing the lawn with over a dozen deer, but there was plenty of space for everyone. It was a perfect stop to watch the sun go down before dinner. The lawn is a great spot at any point in the day, but there is something very special about the quiet at dusk when most tourists have left the park and only lodge guests and animals roam.
RED ROCK GRILL – NIGHT #2
Once the sun went down, we headed into the lobby, enjoyed some more chess together, and slipped into dinner at the Red Rock Grill a few minutes early. It was a great dinner with a well-earned glass of red wine (or two). Sadly, with our late reservations meant the Grill’s specialty, the Navajo Taco, had sold out for the night once again. However, I tried something new and had the Trout Anasazi which was so good! We went to bed with full bellies and hearts knowing our day was one we would always remember.
OUR PLAN – DAY THREE
ZION NATIONAL PARK TO BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK – 85°
Check-out day is always a little sad, even when new adventures are ahead! We took our time in the morning to pack up, handle our son’s Cystic Fibrosis treatments and then headed back to the lawn for a quick breakfast picnic. You just cannot beat the views and calm out on that lawn early in the morning or late in the evening. My husband ran into the Castle Dome Cafe next to the lobby and grabbed some insanely delicious breakfast sandwiches. We enjoyed them in awe of the views around us and then headed back to the room for a final goodbye. Our son actually started crying when he closed the door to our cabin. We had experienced the magic of Zion and assured him we would be back again for more!
CHECKERBOARD MESA
We left the ZION LODGE about 10 am and headed out of Zion Canyon on our way to Bryce Canyon through the east side of the park. Once again, headed up the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway to the ZION-MT. CARMEL TUNNEL, only this time there was more backup and traffic direction happening around the tunnel. As we continued through the east side of Zion, we noticed a change in scenery and a drop in temperatures as the elevation increased. On our way out of the park, we stopped at the CHECKERBOARD MESA pullout to see the mountain that looks like a checkerboard. Our son had read about this geological site in his Zion Rookie Reader leading up to the trip.
THE ROCK STOP on HIGHWAY 89
We left the park and continued towards Carmel Junction in anticipation of all we had heard about Bryce Canyon. At the junction, we headed north on Highway 89 and pulled off for a quick stop at THE ROCK STOP. I had read about this stop in Lonely Planet’s Zion & Bryce Guidebook. The Rock Stop is a unique stop with a Flinstone vibe. It was a fun place to grab some coffee and a few funky rocks for our yard at home! Our son had fun feeding the goats and looking around at all the “treasure.” It is an easy stop right off the highway that breaks up the 2-hour drive from Zion to Bryce. This is a drive everyone should be enjoying!
After our stop, we headed straight to Bryce Canyon. The drive was beautiful and the time passed quickly. There is something so special about driving in beautiful places with the people you love. As we approached Bryce, we passed through Red Rock Canyon and went through several rock tunnels that only built our excitement about Bryce. You can continue to follow our trip and read about our adventure in Bryce next.
I always keep a “NEXT TIME” list when we travel. I feel like it is important to include because this blog is subjective and I want my readers to know about the myriad opportunities that I am still hoping to experience. Whenever I read, hear, research something outside of my experience, I will include it here. My hope is to eventually fully experience these destinations when I visit again (and I can’t wait to do so).
NEXT TIME…
WITH KIDS
- COURT OF THE PATRIARCHS – Shuttle stop #4, a short and steep trail to expansive views of the towering sandstone Abraham, Isaac & Jacob peaks above
- PA’RUS TRAIL – Shuttle stop #1 from the visitor center, a paved 3.5 mile walk along the Virgin River (only 50ft in elevation, great for kids). Tends to be busier as it is the only trail dogs are allowed on in the park, bikes are allowed as well. Lots of views.
- THE ZION LODGE OUTDOOR PATIO with a glass of wine as the sun goes down! We never were able to enjoy the outdoor aspect of the Red Rock Grill and I think it would have been incredible!
WITHOUT KIDS
- ANGEL’S LANDING via WEST RIM TRAIL – 5.4 miles, 4 hours, elevation gain of 1488ft – Steep, long drop-offs and not for anyone afraid of heights. I’ve seen it listed as one of the “most dangerous hikes in the US.” The last portion is a steep, narrow ridge to the incredible view.
- NARROWS HIKE – we did some, but I would love to do the full 14 miles. You definitely need to plan up to 8 hours and need to have the proper equipment for the hike. And, as always, be aware of weather, flash flood warnings, etc.!
- OBSERVATION POINT via EAST RIM – 8 miles, 6 hours, 2148ft elevation gain, leaves from Weeping Rock (shuttle stop #7). Very steep & long drops, but panoramic views from up top vs inside Zion Canyon.
- HIDDEN CANYON TRAIL – 2.5 miles, 2 1/2 hours, 850ft elevation gain, leaves from Weeping Rock (shuttle stop #7)- Long drops, panoramic views from up top vs inside Zion Canyon.
